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WALL SHIELDS

My heraldic shields of arms are made from either mahogany or MDF, a fibreboard used commonly in furniture. Other hardwoods and sheet timbers can be used if required. Metal eyes are fixed to the back for hanging in the same manner as a picture frame. The smallest practical size is about 4 inches high as this is the smallest I can work with the machine tools I use without endangering my fingers. Mahogany shields can comfortably reach 6 inches wide from one plank and sometimes an inch or two more, any wider sizes requiring a wood machine shop to pressure joint the timber. This is regularly done but it tends to add several weeks to the delivery time. MDF shields’ maximum sizes are limited only by sheet sizes which are 4 feet by 8, so anything up to this is possible!

 

Wall shield of Butler, Marquesses of Ormonde. The gold discs are a diaper to break up the starkness of the 1st quarter.Wall shield of Pollo of Venice and New York, loose leaf gold and enamel on mahogany.The arms of Great Torrington, Devon, enamel on ply.The Canadian Heraldic Authority, cellulose, enamel and aluminium leaf on MDF. An imitation silver leaf was used as well as white paint for Argent to vary the appearance.

(mouse over images for details, click to enlarge)

 

As a rule MDF shields will be flat and can have a rounded edge cut by router. They are ½” or 12mm thick but can be cut from thicker sheet if required. Mahogany shields can be rounded over the entire face, to mimic an original heater, for example. The depth of curve is limited by the thickness of plank I start with and can vary from an inch or so up to 4 inches or more to give a dramatic curve to a small shield. This is done using electric planes and sanders. Many of the vast number of shields used over the centuries and even those which were only ever drawn, say on bookplates, can be made using these techniques, but please be aware that I only use machine tools in their manufacture and I do not carve. This limits the effects I can achieve and precludes complex shapes such as rococo surrounds and deeply carved tilting shields.

 

An inescutcheon need not be painted flat. On this shield of Carlos-Legge the wife’s arms are on a separately planed shield which is then fixed to the finished husband’s shield. Cellulose, enamel, aluminium and gold leaf on MDF.Small shields can still be painted and gilded in full detail, this one 4 inches high in MDF.A mahogany shield
finished in enamels, gold and aluminium leaf. The back and top are stained and lacquered. Cut from a 2 inch thick plank, once planed this gives a shallow curve.This mahogany shield, cut to a similar size, is from a 6 inch thick plank. This much depth gives a dramatic curve reminiscent of the medieval
shields which were curved to give greater protection. With thanks to Francis Stephens.

(mouse over images for details, click to enlarge)

 

For internal display I will use a combination of cellulose, gloss and enamel paints, sprayed and brushed on. I use gold leaf for Or unless you ask me to use yellow paint and I can use a tarnish resistant silver leaf for Argent if required. The shield may be varnished if I feel it is appropriate. Hardwood shields have their backs stained and lacquered. I can use an exterior quality paint system throughout if the shield is to be displayed outside. Displayed internally it has an unlimited life and can be viewed as an heirloom, like most heraldic items. If fixed outside permanently its life will depend upon its exposure to the elements but expect 3 to 7 years. I was trained as a sprayer and a signwriter so I have a wide knowledge of paint schemes and use only the most durable paint for outside use.

 

I will need:

  • The shield shape you want
  • The size
  • Your preferred material, e.g. mahogany, MDF, ply or another hardwood
  • Whether it is to be used inside or out

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